Olivea

Olivea is the new kid on the market square block, but its owners are hardly rookie restaurateurs. Olivea is the slightly fancier little sister of Bella Bistro, the long-loved establishment out in Collin's Bay - if you haven't been, I recommend it, and don't let the slightly shabby exterior put you off.

Olivea is housed at the now-fabulous King & Brock location, overlooking market square. I say 'now fabulous' because the building went through several renovations over the years that never made any improvement. In fact, construction photos made their way into my 3rd year structural analysis class as examples of things to never, ever do to a building. These were 'before' photos however, and the place looks much better - and safer - now.

Being an Italian trattoria, I was surprised, but pleased, to find a burger on the lunch menu. The Olivea Burger is made with local Angus beef, Wilton cheddar, tomato relish and bacon on a homemade ciabatta roll and comes with a choice of soup, frites, or green salad for $13.

This burger, although straying from what might be considered 'traditional' for a burger, does everything right. The burger is thick and nicely grilled without tasting like burnt. The tomato relish is savoury and unusual, but highly addictive. The bacon is thick-cut and smokey. The bun is the ideal combination of crusty outside and soft interior, perfects fits the patty size, and never gets soggy. The frites and crispy and salty, and the saffron aoili is delicious and won't give you garlic breath.

During the Casa Domenico review I talked about fancy burgers that ended up being more like fancy sandwiches. This is definitely a burger. A really really awesome burger.

5 out of 5 Pickles.